Amalfi Connections

The ferry, bus, and train system to get your around the Amalfi Coast, Naples, and Capri

To get anywhere in this region, you have to go through Naples—the only city in Italy where even Italians fear to drive. It would be a mistake to tackle the Amalfi Coast by car as well. Good thing there's an extensive public transport system.

From the Napoli Centrale station where most trains arrive, you have two choices: the pickpocket-prone no. 1 tram down to the confusing Molo Beverello docks for a ferry to Capri or Sorrento and the coast (not advisable), or the twice-hourly Circumvesuviana train (www.vesuviana.it), a clattering old suburban rail line out to Sorrento (1 hr. 10 min., €3.20), from which it is far simpler to catch buses and ferries onward.

Finding the Circumvesuviana, which runs underneath Napoli Centrale, is a bit tricky. Head toward the station's main exit, but just before you get there, look to the left for stairs leading down. Follow "Circumvesuviana" signs, but partway along the hall stop at the ticket windows on your left. Several different commuter lines use the same platform, so ask around to be sure the train is bound for Sorrento before stepping on board. Beware of pickpockets every step of the way (the Naples train station is the black hole of Italian pickpockets, and they love to work the tourist-packed Circumvesivuana train as well).

To get to Capri from Sorrento, catch a taxi or local bus down to the docks for one of five daily ferries (40 min., €8.50) or 18 daily hydrofoils (20 min., €11.50).
To get to Amalfi, Praiano, or Positano, you'll need to head to the south side of Sorrento's peninsula along the undulating Amalfi Drive. This white-knuckle thrill ride is one of Italy's greatest wonders, 30 miles of narrow, S-curve roadway strung halfway up a cliff with the waves crashing below, green slopes all around, medieval pirate watchtowers on the headlands, and colorful villages tucked into the coves.

The last thing you want to do is deprive yourself of gawking at every postcard-perfect curve by driving it yourself.

Hop a twice-hourly SITA bus (www.sita-on-line.it) from in front of the Sorrento train station to head to Positano (40 min., €1.30) or Amalfi (1 1/2 hr,, €2.40). Be sure to snag a window seat on the right side of the bus for the best views—and down some Dramamine.

Since the ride back hugs the cliff and not the drop-dead views, a fast ferry (www.metrodelmare.com) makes more sense—especially if you find you can't stomach the twisting bus ride. Ferry frequency varies with the season, but there are roughly six daily between Amalfi and Positano (20 min., €6), four daily between Amalfi and Sorrento (1 hr., €7), and five daily between Amalfi and Naples (1 1/2–2 hr., €10).

 

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