Good eats, simply served

The Trattoria Da Augusto in Rome, Italy

The Silvestri family's rough-and-ready eatery tucked between Trastevere alleys Vicolo delle Cinque and Via del Moro has found its way into virtually every guidebook as the poster child for Trastevere osterie. But the bulk of its patronage remains neighborhood cronies who pack into the pair of rooms and few communal picnic tables squeezed into the triangular piazza out front. Perhaps visitors just can't find the place, tucked into a forgotten corner of Trastevere on a tiny square used as a car park.

You'd do well to peruse the hand-scribbled list of dishes posted out front before heading in, for after spreading the wax paper on your table and plunking down a carafe of the house wine, the brisk, brusque, but efficient waiters (Augusto, his wife, and their adult children) will expect you to know what you want without bringing you a menu. Most regulars start off with the cacio e pepe (spaghetti garnished simply with parmigiano and cracked black pepper), the hearty and lightly spiced rigatoni all'Amatriciana, or straciatella (egg-drop-and-parmigiano soup). Follow it up with a quarter roast chicken, huntsman-style rabbit, braised veal chops, involtini, a succulent abbacchio (spring lamb), or pajata (calf intestines).

Piazza de' Renzi 15 (between Vicolo delle Cinque and Via del Moro)
tel. 06-580-3798

Closed Saturday dinners and Sunday

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