The perfect trattoria

Da Tonino restaurant in Rome, Italy

This traditionalists' trattoria's been satisfying a full house of Romans for three generations. Its name is Trattoria Antonio Bassetti, but everybody calls it "Tonino"—not that there's a sign to even let you know it's there; just beads hanging in a doorway from which emanate the sounds of Roman dialect and clinking plates. It’s the sort of scene Fellini liked to film—a whitewashed room divided by a double arch, brown paint slapped on an uneven wood ceiling, paper on the tables, local antiques workers and shopkeeps squeezed elbow-to-elbow, and Tonino racing around by himself, keeping everyone flush with the staples of Roman cookery. The menu holds few surprises but plenty of good, honest flavors: pasta e fagioli; pasta all'Amatriciana, alla carbonara, or al melanzane (with eggplant), ravioli; straccetti con rughetta; arrosto di vitello; involtini; and polpette. No credit cards.

Via del Governo Vecchio 18 (no sign; at the corner with Vico d'Avila)
tel. 06-241-693 or 333-587-0779
Closed Sunday

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