The only good eats on Campo de' Fiori

Hosteria Romanesca restaurant in Rome, Italy

If you're looking to buck the tourists packing into the famous but much-declined La Carbonara, but still want a seat on lively Campo de' Fiori, head to Armando and Enzo's little 110-year-old osteria. It's the piazza atmosphere and well-tuned traditional dishes you come for, not the service, which sometimes seems nonexistent. (They work hard, but there are just too many diners for two waiters to handle.) The wine is from the Castelli Romani, and dishes include favorites like excellent pasta all'amatriciana, flawless abbacchio scottaditto, and cervello d'abbacchio (fried lamb's brains). In colder weather, you can retreat under the wood beams of the tiny interior. No credit cards.

Campo de' Fiori 40
tel. 06-686-4024
Closed Monday

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