The world's best lasagne

Il Duca restaurant in Rome, Italy

The wood-ceilinged interior and Roman murals between the brick arches of this Trastevere standby are as much of an attraction as the excellent cooking and noisy banter—plenty of Roman dialect still mixed in with the tourist tongues. But they really get stars for the outstanding melt-in-your-mouth lasagna, the only version on the planet better than my mother's. (Mom, incidentally, agrees.)

Since everyone at the table can't order the same thing, they also offer spaghetti alla carbonara (spaghetti tossed with parmigiano, cracked pepper, and raw egg that cooks right onto the hot spaghetti) and gnocchi alla Gorgonzola. For a secondo, the saltimbocca alla romana (veal layered with sage and prosciutto and simmered in white wine) is divine, or try the pollo arrosto con patate (roast chicken with potatoes) or abbacchio à scottaditto (roasted spring lamb so good, according to the name, that you "burn your fingers" in your haste to eat it).

Vicolo delle Cinque 52–56 (just around the corner from Piazza San Egidio, behind Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere)
tel. 06-581-7706
www.ilducaintrastevere.com
Clsoed Sunday dinner and Monday

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