Where St. Peter finally found his mettle

The church of Dominae, Quo Vadis on Rome's Appian Way

Along the Via Appia Antica, famous for its Christian catacombs, is the legendary site where the soon-to-be-Saint Peter, scurrying away from the Christian persecutions in Rome, met a vision of Christ blocking the road. The church built beside that site is called Dominae, Quo Vadis—an odd name for a church, until you hear the parable behind it.

Finding his way blocked by the spectre of his Saviour, a nervous and surprised Peter asked, "Domine, Quo Vadis?," which is Latin for 'Lord, where are you going?' (and can I find a way to make a successful PBS miniseries out of this?).

The vision of Christ replied, "To Rome, to be crucified a second time," whereupon Jesus disappeared, leaving his footprints in the road's flagstone as a sign (there's a cast of them inside the church).

A chastened Peter realized that Christ meant he was going to take the place of the weak-willed first pope and die, once again, for his faith. Peter turned around and returned to Rome to take his martyrdom like a man.

(In fact, when it came to the moment, Peter gritted his teeth and told his executioners he was unworthy of being crucified in the same manner as his Lord and, in effect, asked them to "Do me upside down." This is why there are still a few St. Peter-related holy sites around Rome sporting upside-down crosses—so no, they're not for Satan-worshippers.)

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