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Venetian Tapas
A cichetti crawl though Venice, nibbling on snacks and enjoying ombra glasses of wine
Venetian cichetti are tapas-like finger foods such as calamari rings, speared fried olives, potato croquettes, and grilled polenta squares, traditionally washed down with an ombra (shadow), a small glass of wine. Venice has countless cafes and neighborhood bars called bacari where you can order a selection of cicchetti, a panino (sandwich on a roll), or a toast (grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich). All of the above will cost about €1-€2 if you stand at the bar, or as much as double that if you sit at a table.
One of the best places to head for classic cichetti in a gorgeous environment is Cantina do Mori. Since 1462, this has been the watering hole of choice in the market area; legend even pegs Casanova as a habitué. Here’s the best place to try tramezzini—you're guaranteed fresh combinations of thinly sliced meats, tuna, cheeses, and vegetables, along with tapas-like cichetti. Venetians stop to snack and socialize before and after meals; if you don't mind standing (there are no tables), do as they do. And now with a limited number of primi like melanzane alla parmigiana (eggplant parmigiana) and fondi di carciofi saltati (lightly fried artichoke hearts), my obligatory stop here is more fulfilling than ever before. It's in the San Polo neighborhood, with entrances on Calle Galiazza and Calle Do Mori (cross the Ponte Rialto to the San Polo side, walk to the end of the market stalls, turn left, then turn immediately right, and look for the small wooden cantina sign on the left). (tel. +39-041-522-5401, Closed Sun)
In the Drosoduro neighborhood, Enoteca Cantinone Già Schiavi offers not only a broad selection of €1 chicchetti and inexpensive glasses of vino under a beamed ceiling, but also a few dozen wines under €10 a bottle so you can take un'ombra home with you. After your snack, stroll to the far end of the Fondamenta to see one of the last surviving squero (gondola workshops) in Venice. The chicchetteria is on Fondamenta S. Trovaso at no. 992 (tel. +39-041-523-0034)
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This material was last updated December 2006. All information was accurate at the time.
Copyright © 1998-2008 by Reid Bramblett. All rights reserved.


