The Lion of Venice

St. Mark's Basilica (Basilica di San Marco) in Venice, Italy

Let's just come out and say it: there simply is no church in Europe more lavishly decorated, more exquisitely mosaicked, more glittering with gold than San Marco, the cathedral of Venice.

Built in the 11th century, its guiding principle in architecture and decoration is Byzantine, but Romanesque and Gothic styles have left their mark as well over six centuries of expansion and decoration. The atrium, ceilings, walls, and multiple domes are all encrusted with over 40,000 square feet of gold-backed mosaics crafted between the 12th and 17th centuries.

San Marco Ground Rules
(1) Dress appropriately—no bare shoulders or knees (i.e. no shorts, short skirts, or tank tops). (2) Keep silent. (3) This brings a disappointed groan out of everyone, but positively no photography is permitted.

The oldest of these mosaics were created by Eastern masters, and later ones were based on cartoons by Tintoretto, Veronese, and Titian.

The floor is a reflection of the mosaic craft in marble, an undulating wonderland of color and pattern.

The church's most disappointing aspect is that it's so popular and its lines so long you are shuffled through like sightseeing cattle, kept moving along so the next batch of tourists can cram in. Still, your 20-60 minutes inside (depending on how many of the church's side attractions you visit) are unforgettable.

Don't miss popping into the baptistery alcove, with a font carved by Sansovino, or checking out the presbytery with its Pala d'Oro, a gem-studded golden trophy from Constantinople.

Above the church proper and entered through the atrium is the Marciano Museum (a.k.a. Loggia dei Cavalli, the Loggia of the Horses), which affords you a close-up look at some of those mosaics and that houses the original Triumphal Quadriga of four horses, replicas of which stride across the facade's roof.

Time to Get Religion
My favorite time to visit St. Mark's? A Sunday at 6:45pm—for mass. Mass? Yep. While the priest drones in singsong Latin at the altar, incense swirling around him from a swaying censor, you can sit in silence for an hour getting a crick in your neck. That's because, only during the evening mass, the 40,000 square feet of glittering mosaics —which appear smoke-stained and shadowy by day—are illuminated to their full glittering glory. Only one rule: Tourists are not allowed, so you must be discreet, arrive on time, stay in your pew, and sit quietly through to the end.

These life-size bronze equines are one of Venice's treasures. Taken in 1204 from Constantinople during the crusades, their origin is murky, but they're at least ancient (AD 2nd century is the best guess), either Roman or Hellenistic.

The cathedral runs free guided tours in summer, usually around 10:30am Mon-Sat (check in the atrium for specifics). Large bags are no longer allowed inside the basilica, and a left luggage office has been established at Ateneo San Basso in Calle San Basso 315A.

Piazza San Marco
tel. +39-041-522-5205, www.basilicasanmarco.it
Closed Sunday morning to non-worshippers